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02 – PAVIA E DINTORNI – San Riccardo Pampuri – Angelo Nocent

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PAVIA E DINTORNI

Prima di raggiungere la chiesa di Trivolzio dove riposano le spoglie mortali di San Riccardo Pampuri in attesa di risurrezione, con il nostro fantastico elicottero vogliamo solcare “il bel ciel di Lombardia, tanto bello quando è bello” (Manzoni) e fare un volo panoramico sulla provincia di Pavia che si estende su di una superficie di 2.965 km2 ed è attualmente suddivisa in 190 comuni per un totale di 497.000 abitanti.

Limitata dalle province di Milano, Lodi, Piacenza, Alessandria, Vercelli e Novara il corso del Po, che la attraversa da ovest a est, la divide in due paesaggi molto diversi. A nord si stendono le pianure della Lomellina e del Pavese vero e proprio, separate dal fiume Ticino; a sud la zona dell’Oltrepò Pavese, formata da una fascia pianeggiante relativamente esigua alla destra del Po, alla quale succedono i rilievi collinari e montuosi dell’Appennino Ligure.

Da sempre i principali prodotti sono il riso, il mais, le barbabietole da zucchero e i foraggi, che danno vita ad un cospicuo allevamento di bovini nella pianura; l’uva da vino con notevole produzione nelle colline dell’Oltre Pò Pavese.

Sconsiglierei i miei quattro lettori di rinunciare al piacere di assaporare la pagina lirica che riporto di seguito, solo per la smania di voler arrivare subito al nocciolo, ossia all’anima di San Riccardo Pampuri. Infatti, dalla penna di Vittorio Beonio-Brocchieri, uno degli scrittori più immaginosi e ricchi del primo novecento, è uscita una magistrale descrizione del territorio di allora che ci riporta a godere di quel panorama, a sentire rumori e canti ormai cancellati per sempre, a cogliere usanze e vivere le stagioni con il mondo pavese del primo ’900.

La sua esposizione ci aiuta a resuscitare l’ambiente, ormai in parte alterato, in cui si è mosso il nostro santo protagonista, sbucato come una viola sul ciglio del fosso, per vivere, delle stagioni della vita, soltanto la primavera.

Lo scrittore, concluse le sue vaste peregrinazioni e ritornando al seno della pianura lombarda, di essa così scrive:

“ Paese vivo e gentile, per i suoi tortili fiumi, per i campi vigilati da oneste file di pioppi, e le risaie intrise di chiarore, e l’odor di concime tra i solchi grassi, e le casare solenni come biblioteche….

Del ritrovato paese d’origine rivivo tutto intero il volto e lo spirito, ripensandolo nel quadrante delle stagioni; perché alle maree del mito georgico questa terra risponde con un suo vario respiro.

Le viole tentano di febbraio il ciglio erboso dei fossati, ma solo alla metà di marzo i salici sembrano imbiondire, come favi di miele. E tocca alle ilari docce d’aprile lustrar la seta dei frumenti. Squilla tra le siepi d’oro dei ravizzoni e, dove la falce del contadino rasa il primo taglio maggengo, resta disteso a terra un fustagno a cui Paolo Veronese rubò certo suo colore profondo e inimitabile.

Con le rondini, sbocciano ghirlande bianche di ciliegi e ceselli rosati di peschi, effimeri e gentili come il vento dell’equinozio.

Le spighe crescono nel canto delle cicale, e a Pentecoste sono alte, ma verdi, come eravamo noi nel tempo dei primi calzoni lunghi, già maturi di gambe e ancora acerbi di testa. Ricordo la giostra felice al terminar delle lezioni, quando bruciate le odiose grammatiche si usciva alla campagna per rubar cocomeri dietro le siepi: bei frutti paesani dalla scorza dura di malachite e dalla polpa sanguinolenta, in cui affondavano i nostri denti quindicenni, senza carie né stuccature.

Ma quale scrittore, quale poeta mai ha saputo parlarci delle campane, di quelle pie campane lombarde che oscillano echeggiando di paese in paese al segnale del Vespro, mentre i cani abbaiano e dai villaggi esalano strisce di fumo e queti stridori di galline?

Quante volte in terra straniera, su lidi sconosciuti, nelle soste bruciate del Tropico, o negli attoniti silenzi dell’Artide, affranto di cammino, svuotato di illusioni, ho patita la mancanza di questa voce; la voce che il vento della sera sospinge coll’ombra delle nubi di campo in campo, sulle consolate pianure del mio paese.E con la nostalgia delle campane, risentivo nel ricordo il canto magico delle risaie: l’inimitabile orchestra delle rane.

Fu un sagacissimo abate a rivelarmi nei pressi di un’antica Certosa, in una sera di luna, il segreto delle rane di Lombardia: che non cantano “a solo”, ma sono organizzate per notturne società corali, osservando un registro di parte e un turno di massa; così che un campo entra in voce quando l’altro più lontano ha cessato, e poi quello riprende se questo riposa; e via per ondate alterne, che si smorzano a grado a grado nel pulviscolo del firmamento.

Ma quando di pieno agosto le trebbiatrici frullano, c’è sempre in giro qualche voce di ragazza che canta sulle aie scottate; ed è un canto che rende pensosi. Nel tardo crepuscolo, coi fieni che fermentano e le prime nebbie, ti sorprendono i mandolini acuti dei grilli; e i contadini lamentano che i giorni si accorciano e l’anno già declina.

Dopo che l’ultimo grano è scomparso, il soffio di settembre ripulisce all’orizzonte il cerchio dei monti, azzurri e lievi nella distanza, come ricordi della vita passata. Allora la gente di collina comincia a ragionare dell’uva e della vendemmia. Cigolano sui carretti le bigonce, e i filari allungano le ombre oblique sulle strade campestri.

Il tardo sole lombardo somiglia a quello che pencola sulle pianure di Bretagna e Pomerania. E temo che sia nipote di qualche sole forestiero, portato quaggiù da Cimbri e Longobardi, a tutela di vecchi castelli, per testimonianza di loro barbariche visitazioni.

* * * 

Se ripenso a certe soste autunnali della mia adolescenza, vedo sul tetto della casa fili punteggiati di uccelli migranti. Risento nelle narici e nella bocca l’aroma delle prime castagne e riodo il grido cadenzato del venditore d’angolo della strada. Così batte l’inverno alle soglie di S. Carlo. Ché in terra padana se rapido è il balzo dalle viole alle rondini, più rapido è il tuffo dal mosto alle nevi.

Al giorno dei morti, quando mani, abiti e pensieri sono impregnati di crisantemo e di pioggia, le mandrie all’ultimo pascolo guardano dal ciglio dei campi, con occhio stupito e naso fumante, quella processione di gente viva che porta fiori al camposanto, camminando senza parlare.

E’ il tempo che i fiumi minacciano di straripare. Sotto le fitte piogge i guardiani degli argini, vigilando di notte con picche e lanterne, danno l’allarme a colpi di tromba.

Ma i boschi, soltanto i boschi sono ancora in festa: perché si vestono di gala per morire; e mentre tutti gli arcobaleni sono già esiliati dal cielo e dalla terra, le piante si danno convegno sotto le nebbie novembrine per sfoggiare tra luci fuggiasche certe superstiti iridescenze, trafugate al testamento della defunta estate. E allora e saggia cosa camminare nei vecchi giardini, movendo col piede trucioli di ambra, mentre sui rampicanti si condensano pigmenti di porpora e la vite vergine brucia di squamme sulfuree.

Cos’ la caduta delle foglie segna la sagra di commiato, ma anche il breve sfarzo finale dell’annata lombarda. Poi i boschivi rilasciano, e nelle sodaglie non si ode che lo sparo di qualche cacciatore, mentre alla prima neve una nordica rimembranza di gelo appanna le vetrate con rabeschi di cristallo.

Vent’anni sono bastati per ricondurmi, più devoto che mai, alle radici della terra nativa e alle soglie di un tranquillo Camposanto, dove riposano tutte le certezze del mio destino, e dove io stesso un giorno tra una rosa rampicante e due cipressi sereni, scoprirò l’ultima pace. Il cielo buono di Lombardia si inarca su quella pietra sicura.

Infatti la meridiana di vento e longitudine di sole, un segreto richiamo ha rivolto a quest’ultimo polo le rotte della mia maturata esperienza, dopo avere, attraverso gli spazi del mondo, inseguiti i segni della storia e dell’anima umana. Quasi ubbidendo alle leggi che governano gli astri, anche l’eclittica di questo lungo errare si conclude riportandomi al punto dal quale ero partito”.

 (Vittorio Beonio-Brocchieri — Da Ritorno al paese ne “IL MARCOPOLO” Arnoldo Mondadori, Edit. 1945). 

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 Dopo aver sorvolato il Pavese, il nostro occhio ora va a concentrarsi sul punto geografico che più c’interessa: Trivolzio, il luogo natale del santo. Del paese di allora, molto simile a cento altri della “Bassa”, non so dire più di tanto perché la mia ricerca non è stata fortunata. Ma un pavese DOC come Cesare Angelini, sacerdote e letterato di straordinaria sensibilità, m’è venuto in aiuto ( e che aiuto!).

Dipingendo il suo paese, Albuzzano e le campagne d’intorno, e le abitudini della gente, variatis variandis, senza volere ha descritto anche la Trivolzio di allora e di cento altri paesi contrassegnati dal medesimo DNA. E’ lui stesso ad ammettere che Albuzzano già negl’anni sessanta non era più la stessa, come non lo erano Trivolzio e gl’altri cento paesi consanguinei.

Non me ne vogliano gl’Albuzzesi se m’improprio indebitamente di immagini uscite dalla penna-pennello del loro più illustre concittadino per descrivere Trivolzio, paese assunto negl’ultimi anni alle cronache non solo nazionali, grazie al loro concittadino Pampuri. In fondo, il prete dotto e il frate santo sono due taglie della stessa stoffa: il cristianesimo lombardo, ricco e fecondo come le sue terre.

 In questo viaggio nel passato in compagnia dell’Angelini, saranno risparmiati ai lettori sforzi d’immaginazione perché, come conferma Sara Pezzati, “è tutto così magnificamente descritto che le immagini si stagliano dal testo, nette, vivide. E anche quello che ancora oggi, esattamente come allora, avrei sotto gl’occhi — dai sassi delle vie di Pavia alla natura dei dintorni – spesso ho l’impressione di vederlo per la prima volta attraverso i suoi scritti”. 

Non saprei dire se Trivolzio affonda le sue origini nell’età roma a della decadenza. Il nome me lo fa pensare. Certamente fino agl’anni in cui venne al mondo il Pampuri, il paese era “tutta una ruvida massa di condizione contadina: anche il sarto, anche il calzolaio, o il muratore e il tessitore avevano questo come un secondo mestiere per le stagioni stanche dell’anno; quello vero era il contadino”.

 Oltre che di estrema povertà, erano tempi, quelli, di grave mortalità infantile. Tanto per averne un idea, l’Angelini racconta che “Man mano che gli nascevano i figli, mio padre ne scriveva col lapis i nomi e le date sulla pagina interna della Storia sacra: Maria, Giuseppe, Domenico, Carlo, Gina; i miei fratelli, morti. Ma basta che io li nomini per sentirmi ancora in cammino con loro”.

I nomi che certamente hanno precedenza nel nostro necrologio sono due: la madre, Angela Campari, morta quando Erminio aveva tre anni ed il padre, Innocente Pampuri, morto per un incidente stradale che ne aveva dieci. Seguono i fratelli: Giuseppina, Ferdinando, Teresa, Achille, Emilia, Maria (la futura suor Maria Longina, francescana missionaria in Egitto), Agostino, Margherita e Giuseppino. Il decimo è Erminio, l’undicesimo ed ultimo figlio dei Pampuri è Pietro, morto appena un mese dopo la nascita.

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